The magic behind the art of blending fine olive oils

To blend or not to blend? With apologies to Shakespeare, it’s a question so important to producers of olive oil that it might well give Hamlet pause. There are those who are always ready to mingle the oils, the talented creators who’ve made blending an art form. And there are the monocultivars, those who insist on absolute purity in the production process and the use of a single-source oil.  

Deoleo, producer of such fine olive oil brands as Bertolli, Carapelli, Carbonell and Koipe (and Figaro in India), has determined that, in fact, there is no correct answer. The choice depends on the objective and, even more so, on market needs.  

The monocultivars, as well as the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) and Protected Geographical Indication (PGI), are adamant about uniqueness in varietal characteristics and territory. They fret about what’s known as “typicality” – conformity to a specific type. 

But the chief drawbacks here are that there’s no consistent, balanced definition of what the senses should be experiencing – the so-called organoleptic profile – or consideration for the loss in quality that can result from sudden changes in climate and parasite attacks when a single-source oil has to be used.  

A quality product begins with the ability to select the most appropriate raw materials without geographical or varietal or even seasonal restrictions. The production of extra virgin olive oil now extends far beyond the Mediterranean basin. Oils have become available from several countries of the Southern Hemisphere, such as Argentina, Chile, Peru and Australia. This means there is still fresh oil at the ready when the Mediterranean crop has been harvested and some oils are growing a little “tired”.  

But what effect does the introduction of secondary-source oil from different areas at other times of the year have on the finished product? This is where the master blender works his magic – in ensuring that there is no noticeable change in the sensorial profile, regardless of variations in the oils’ origins. It’s his job to combine different oils and yet maintain the same final profile: a balanced oil with well-defined character that’s able to satisfy the different sensory preferences.  

The blender must know how to replicate this oil over time when there are varying raw materials available. 

Let’s follow the master blender’s work step by step: 

1. Understand consumer needs on a regional basis and translate those preferences into a flavour profile that will represent the brand’s signature – for example, harmonic, floral, citrus, with fresh herbaceous notes, with a full body, but not too aggressive in the mouth. Or it might have a more decisive character, with notes of artichoke, aromatic herbs, spices and strong bitter and spicy notes on the palate. The balance between the individual sensorial attributes and their respective intensities must be fully imagined at the outset. 
2. Identify olives with qualities that can be blended to achieve the desired profile 
3. Create a recipe by pairing together high quality extra virgin olive oil to ensure consistent flavour and quality 
4. Evaluate the resulting blend and either confirm the recipe or repeat the process until the perfect blend is achieved 

Blending is indeed an art that puts olive oil masters to the test. Flavours from different terroirs, soils and climates have to collaborate and produce a memorable result. Blending is also useful when oils lack their own personality but show an ability to work well in combination with others. 

The types of extra virgin oil used can differ in their origin, plantation, genetics or even the time of harvesting. As long as they are somehow different, they can contribute to a blend. The only firm rule is that there must be a definite purpose in the way different olive oil varieties are put together.  

The art of blending is combining different elements and obtaining a result greater than the individual elements.  

The master blender starts tasting the different elements and then understand which ones can be combined with others. You may have sweet or bitter or pungent flavors, but when they are together they strike a balance.  

Underlying the art of blending is a unique product profile with ingredients mixed in a unique combination to match the consumer’s preferences. Blending world-class oils together opens the door to create flavours and experiences unlike anything else.  

It is in fact more than art and more than science. Achieving the unique flavours of a blend takes passion, too, and it’s found in all of the superb Deoleo olive oils.